Freedom is just another name for……….Berlin
July 24th, 2006
It is easy for us all to get caught up in our lives. It is also very easy to think that times have never been worse in the world, that the world problems of ‘our time’ are more serious than in the past. As a futurist, I try to look closely at the present, but from the perspective of the rhythms or waves of history and recent history to best get a clear view of the near future.
Leaving a U.S. full of news stories about Korean missiles, new killings in the Middle East [no real surprise there], civil war and terrorism in Iraq, fear of terrorism at home and a drifting and incompetent Presidency, I flew to Germany for a vacation trip with my son, starting with 6 days in Berlin.
Berlin is simply the most impressive city I have seen in a long time, but I will write about that in coming posts, as it truly feels like a city of the future. For now, let’s take a look at what I saw in one day within walking distance of my hotel.
First, an outdoor exhibit that has been up for 9 years called “The Topography of Terror” that is in a park-vacant lot that used to be the headquarters of the Gestapo and the SS. In exact and chilling historical detail this exhibit told the history of the two darkest parts of the Third Reich, profiled a number of victims as examples and then told the story of the Nuremberg trials. Running right along side this exhibit was a two block long section of the Berlin Wall left standing. Side by side: a story of unspeakable atrocities and a remnant of the most overt restriction of freedom in modern times.
Second, a massive four to five acre memorial to “The Murdered Jews of WWII” that is one of the most unique memorials I have ever seen. Six to twenty foot long concrete blocks, 2711 of them, ranging in height from one to thirty feet. When walking through this ‘maze’ one gets a feeling of ‘infinite no-way-outness’ that was only broken by the laughter of young children playing hide and seek with their parents. Underneath all these monoliths, underground, was a precise, detailed history of what happened to European Jews under the Nazis. Specific numbers of victims by country and killing camps. I had forgotten that of the six million murdered victims only 200,000 were German, with the vast amount, 4 million plus from Poland and the rest of Eastern Europe.
Third, and for me the most personal was the museum at what used to be Checkpoint Charlie. This was the location that, from 1961 to 1989 was the place for people from the West to cross into East Berlin. As a teenager I had passed through Checkpoint Charlie to spend a day in East Berlin. The stark contrast with West Berlin, the greyness, the constant presence of grey uniformed soldiers with automatic weapons was a lasting experience and a taste of what living in a totalitarian society must be like. I remember coming back to West Berlin, and, with a Swiss army knife, sneaking up to the wall to pick out a couple of pieces of The Wall [I have them still, in a lucite block] and getting yelled at by an East German soldier, waving his weapon at me.
Walking through this museum moved me to tears to read how people had risked their lives to help others escape. How people had spent hours in car gas tanks, or suitcases, or carved out machinery, or jumped from third story windows to get to the West. The desire for freedom and the lengths to which people went to have it was simply overwhelming. This is a museum about freedom. Since it was just around the corner from our hotel, we passed by there several times and of any place in Berlin, it had the most crowds, day and night.
One final note about the museum: I had forgotten, and this was starkly pointed out that over 60 million people had lost their lives in WWII in Europe alone! We know to never forget the 6 million Jews that were murdered, but there were 54 million other people who also died. During the last ten days in the battle of Berlin, 70,000 people died, 30,000 of them civilians. In terms of number of deaths, that is 3,000 civilians, or the equivalent of one WTC tragedy every day, for ten straight days, and this in a city of 2 million.
The years from 1933 to 1989 was when Berlin was under two of the most heinous totalitarian regimes in history. Since 1989 the city has made great efforts to celebrate freedom and to starkly educate all how awful it’s absence can be.
The story of freedom will continue to be written, but let us not get lost in today’s threats so that we think the past were the “good old days”.
July 25th, 2006 at 6:31 am
Well spoken & written. Freedom is priceless and these days is not a given when we see what is going on around us. What an experience for your son as well to bring back to the good ‘ole USA.
July 25th, 2006 at 9:09 am
Great post, David! It’s truely amazing how “reformed” Germany has become since the wall came down.
Standing over there, and looking over here, do you think Americans take their freedom for granted?
If they didn’t would “things” be different in our society and the way we look at our government?
Have a great time on the rest of your trip!
-Grant
TheCornerOfficeBlog.com
July 25th, 2006 at 10:16 am
While most Americans would tell you they highly value ‘Freedom’, I think that a number of Americans tie the word too closely to consuming what they want and accepting a flag-waving jingoistic national view of it as slopped at them by self-serving politicians. In other words, Americans tie freedom to comfort and politicians use it to describe their acts. I believe Bush used the word freedom more than any other word when telling us why we had to go to war with Iraq.
Fortunately thousands of people were at Dachau today when we visited and it is not possible to walk away from that place without clarity as to what absence of freedom means.
And hey, it all started with Hitler getting the government to allow him to bypass the court system……hmmmmmm.
April 4th, 2008 at 12:34 pm
In the twenties Berlin was also one of the most modern
cities in the world, especially in the arts, but also in
its diversity, not ethnic but its ferment of thought and ideology. Now, that modernism is the pinnacle of present day celebration and care for freedom. It may be the only free city that takes nothing for granted..likely so even the youngest generation. Haunted by the complicity of their parents and grandparents Berliners
know the fragility of freedom, and thus its preciousness. The museums, memorials, killing sites which assert the sins of their forbears have become important footholds to freedom’s preservation.
While 60 million died in WW 2 it was only the 6 million Jews and also Roma who died because of the accident of their birth. The loss of Jews amounted to about 40% of
world Jewish population. The 200,000 from Germany amounted to about 40% of German Jewish citizens.
The state of art horrors of the Nazi regime were unprecedented. The effort of descendants to come to terms with their families’ benign or active complicity
is also unprecedented and is now driving the future of
Germany…as most vividly seen in Berlin.
George Rosenbaum
.
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November 18th, 2009 at 9:52 am
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